16 June 2017

The gert mean social media machine 17.0617

The bits we haven't talked about...

Travelling almost non-stop for nearly 8 months has been many things; exciting, eye opening, jaw dropping, incredible. It's also been many things I wasn't expecting; boring, frustrating, repetitive, tiresome, exhausting. I want to put these parts into words for myself and perhaps others, because if there's one thing I've learnt over the past 8 months it's that social media is a great big warping monster that we're all guilty of feeding. I'll hold my hands up and say I've been no exception. As a people pleaser I suppose I've felt some kind of obligation to be having 'the time of my life', and to prove that's the case  by posting a regular stream of photographs of Dod and me enjoying ourselves. Just to set the record straight, these are not fake news. We were in fact enjoying ourselves in said photographs. However, I feel a new obligation to record the bits we haven't talked about. Just to reiterate, what follows is not to take away from all of the incredible experiences we've shared and recorded. I wish I could go back and be brave enough to integrate this so it doesn't seem so sudden, but here it is; a seemingly dull but I feel nonetheless important account of the bits we haven't talked about (rounded off with a big positive 'BUT' you can skip to if you really do want stick to 'the best bits')...

We initially chose to travel for an unlimited amount of time (funds permitting), which on one hand has given us a wonderful amount of freedom throughout the trip. But this time has also been a huge chip on my shoulder. Being a serial over-thinker and living without any real structure has been extremely difficult. Throwing myself into this blog has been my saviour, but that hasn't anywhere near filled enough time to restrain the monstrous void of thought. My anxiety levels have been through the roof for the best part of this trip, but nobody would know because it's just not instagramable. I'm not by any means saying this will happen to anyone who decides to travel for a long period of time, only to be wary that it's not all waterfalls, elephants and zip line experiences. Before we came away we were under the impression that it would be non-stop excitement all the time. The reality is very different. Firstly on a trip this long it's not affordable, and secondly despite being half way across the world you are still the same human being, and daily life still has its limits. To be on the go 24/7 is just as impossible as it is back home, yet I've felt immense guilt every time we've had a 'nothing' day or even just afternoon. We've also suffered slightly with 'same, same but different' syndrome. After the 100th Temple, museum or market it's very hard to stay motivated when visiting the sites. For me it provoked the question 'why am I still here?'. I came away predominantly to experience new things and challenge myself, however have more often than not felt as though I'm on a leisurely site seeing holiday. This in itself has made it very difficult to maintain a positive outlook on giving up jobs that we loved and being half the world away from my friends, family and everything going on back home - which if it wasn't for social media we would be none the wiser about. I've (over) thought thoroughly about how we could have done things differently, travelled for less time or worked more maybe. But I've come to the conclusion that although these components may have had a minor impact, the underlying issue is that our trip doesn't, and was never going to add up to the ridiculous expectations I had built up in my head. The expectations we built, and the subsequent pressure we placed on ourselves on the basis of social media coverage that obviously only shows the best bits.

Here's the big huge BUT...


Writing all this down has been a weight off my shoulders, but still has me feeling somewhat guilty, or spoilt. Though it helps to know from speaking to others that we're not the only ones to feel this way. Despite it all, we have absolutely no regrets in making the decision to save and come away. As I touched upon at the beginning, there have been some incredible highs that I hope are nonetheless valid through me writing this piece. We have also been enlightened and rounded ourselves in ways that aren't possible in the western world, so given the chance again I would 100% take it. And if it wasn't for the low bits inbetween, well I would never be sat here writing this - which feels equally important to me. 

Although we haven't had to overcome as many physical barriers as anticipated, our thirst for challenge has led us to look inwards and question the barriers we set ourselves every day. In doing so we've learnt the true value of asking these questions, and the liberation of rejecting what we don't believe in or what doesn't believe in us. I think the best way to describe the benefit is this: 

When you're attempting an important task, it's always best to take a step back and come back to it with fresh eyes. I suppose I feel like life is the mother of all tasks, and so it takes the mother of all step backs to come at with fresh eyes. You might find that you were doing just fine, or you might find that there are some things you could change, but the outcome isn't really what matters here. What matters is that those fresh eyes have allowed us to place trust in our own judgement of that all important question; am I doing the right thing? We can ask for help and listen to advice from others, but that search for verification, so over-complicated by our social media orientated generation, can only ever truly end in one place; within. 


14 June 2017

Langkawi 01.06.17 - 14.06.17

After a horrendous ferry crossing we arrived on Langkawi with plans to stay for 5 sand, salt and sun orientated days; but, after laying eyes on our riverside wooden stilt house I knew we would be island bound for the ramainder of our trip. Two weeks later and I'm sat here, legs bathed in golden sunlight and feet dangling over the river thinking tomorrow has come far too quickly. We've had two weeks of pure bliss, aside from meeting up with our lovely friends Jack and Frida a few times we've pretty much lazed our way through our final days of this unkempt and gleeful reality. We applied for a few jobs each (eek!), spent time writing, reading and noshing on juicy fresh fruit and scrambled egg (we have been limited to microwave cooking!). The most excitement we've had for 2 weeks came in the form of a lovely lizard that decided to pay us a visit a few days ago, who we chased out the door with a fishing net. Tomorrow we fly to Kuala Lumpur, then just a few days later we board our flight to Heathrow, marking the end of this first chapter of adventures. Whilst we've been here, I've spent some time writing a final, very honest blog piece that will be with you shortly. For now, ten photographs from our time on Langkawi... 












George Town 29.05.17 - 01.06.17

A Turbulent Journey 

We travelled from Singapore to George Town via night bus, thankfully the last of its kind for us. After a successful border crossing we re-boarded the bus and settled down for the long night ahead. The driver, who had been coughing his guts since we left Singapore city centre, seemed to have the same idea himself. I was half asleep when the woman at the front of the bus started shouting 'SIR SIR', 'ARE YOU OK SIR?'. The driver was falling asleep at the wheel! We began to drift across a luckily empty lane just as he came to and pulled the bus over. 'DO YOU WANT TO SLEEP?' Shouted the very panicked woman at the front of the bus. The driver, who was obviously extremely embarrassed took the route of denying the whole thing had happened, pretending that he'd pulled over to check the bus door was properly shut. We were part of a group of only 8 passengers, who at this point all began to speak up and agree that the driver should stop and sleep for an hour or so. Sitting back down behind the wheel, he shook is head determined still that nothing had happened to suggest he wasn't fit to drive. The next 4 hours were hellish. Thank goodness the roads were quiet because he was all over the place, drifting between the three lanes and endlessly coughing and spluttering. Eventually we made it to Kuala Lumpar where we thankfully had to change bus and driver. I couldn't help but feel a bit sorry for the man as he held the door for people to climb off the bus, only to be greeted  with comments like 'learn to drive next time' and 'DO NOT DRIVE WHEN YOU ARE SICK' from a host of angry and frightened passengers. Another night bus, another near death experience! We arrived at our Hostel around 9am exhausted and in desperate need of a shower, only to be told that there was absolutely no way we could check in until 2pm. Deep breaths and forced smiles we set up camp in the common room, then come 2pm finally laid our heads to rest. 

George Town 

The next 3 days in George Town most definitely made up for our trouble getting there. It's a gorgeous little town decorated with a colourful array of street art focused on local culture. The town itself isn't bursting with things to do, we mostly enjoyed feeding time in the little India and snacking on local cuisine from the street vendors. We hired a motorbike for one day to explore the rest of Penang, which lead us to Cat Beach and a beautiful sunny ride through the National Park. Cat Beach is actually a rescue centre for strays, based on a beach. We arrived into chaotic scenes as a girl asked us desperately whether we had come to volunteer or adopt 1 or 5 cats. Cages of sick cats were piled on top of one another in a room that we reluctantly had to remove our shoes to step inside of. We made as big a donation as we we could afford and sat outside playing with a few of the not so sick cats by the ocean for a while, but even they had dreadfully snotty noses so we didn't stick around for too long. Hats off to the lady that was running the show, there were well over 100 stray cats in her care, some of which we would have been more than glad to take home with us! Dod and me fell in love with a tiny kitten called Midori, check him out in the photographs below...























5 June 2017

Singapore 27.05.17 - 28.05.17

Whilst in Melaka we made a spontaneous decision to hop over the bridge to Singapore for a whirlwind 24 hour visit. It may only be a 4 hour bus ride from Melaka, but it's a world away from Malaysia (from what we've seen so far) and certainly the likes of Cambodia, Vietnam, Lao and India! We felt like aliens stepping onto a clean and shiny metro. After 7 months of mostly tuk tuks, smelly coaches and dirt tracks everything felt so big and robotic, and we felt so unclean. A kind of culture shock that we definitely weren't expecting! After a shower and change into our cleanest clothing we were ready for our 24 hours of city fun. Initially we were worried this wouldn't be enough, now used to factoring in over time for the inevitable to go wrong. But with all the mod cons available we soon remembered just how easy everything can be. Singapore was the perfect place to get a taste of the flash packer lifestyle on a back packer's budget as there is an unusual amount to do for free or priced variably. We spent most of our time just wondering the high rise filled streets in awe of their futuristic feel, and of course window shopping in the many luxurious shopping malls. We also enjoyed exploring the Botanical Gardens, a cultural dance performance down on the waterfront and wondering various art galleries all free of charge. However, there was one attraction we couldn't miss out on - The Cloud Dome. It's part of The Gardens By Bhe Bay complex, which is amazingly all priced separately so we could chose to pay for only one entrance ticket as well as wonder around the outside of the others for free. The Cloud Dome is a man made ecosystem featuring a huge mountain and waterfall; it was absolutely breathtaking and one of the best things we've done. Singapore was an incredible experience that has definitely got us thinking about what direction our next trip might take... 


Singapore in Ten (twelve because I couldn't choose) Photographs














4 June 2017

Melaka 23.05.17 - 27.05.17


Our first stop in Malaysia was Melaka, a place best described as a 'chocolate box town' that could bring out the inner photographer in just about anyone. Colourful street art, Portuguese colonial buildings, yummy street food and a cosy coffee shop on every corner it was a truly wonderful introduction to this beautiful country. What I particularly loved about Melaka was the celebration and coming together of cultural variations, race and religion both. For example, on the street we stayed on there was a Hindu Temple, Buddhist Temple, Mosque and just opposite across the river a church all within 200m of each other. This cultural blend originates from a long history of colonialism by the British, Dutch, Portuguese and for a short time the Japanese before Malaya gained independence in 1957. Although colonialism is perhaps not something to be celebrated, what was clear to see was how much more vibrant and accepting of diversity this town is for being home to such a wide array of people. The result seemingly a huge focus on creativity and a community that works together and supports each other. A great example of this was the weekend night market. Although not much took our fancy (we nick-named Melaka Queen of tat) it was amazing to see how much of the local community gets involved. Shops, restaurants and cafes set up pop-up stalls all along 'Jonker Walk' from 6pm-11pm every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. The atmosphere was buzzing with an equal mix of tourists and locals enjoying the goings on. We spent four days exploring Melaka by a mixture of foot and bicycle, buy regretfully didn't quite make it onto one of those lovely 'tri-shaws'... 


Ten Photographs from Melaka 












Battambang 18.05.17 - 22.05.17

Bamboo Train 

Battambang is the second largest city in Cambodia after Phnom Penh, but only recently has it become known to tourists. Why? Because of a creeky, quirky and for some reason down right loveable 'bamboo train'. The single track line was originally used to transport people and produce between the tiny village of O Sra Lau and O Dambong (a stones throw away from Battambang). However, with the arrival of a new roads this track and many others like it became redundant for years. Much to the locals amusement tourists now come from far and wide to ride the old thing. On paper we certainly questioned its appeal, but when in Battambang! We boarded a bamboo flatbed, also known as a 'Norry' and sat cross legged ready for what we thought would be a leisurely ride through the countryside. Our driver lit up a fag and started up the engine almost simultaneously before we began roaring into greenery. My those things can move! We spent the first part of the journey clutching one another and laughing our heads off at how unexpectedly speedy it was. About half way through the ride another Norry appeared in the distance and we began to slow. As we jolted to a stop the driver grumpily muttered "can you help", unknowingly we obliged. It turns out we had to disembark the train and move it off the tracks! We found the whole experience absolutely hilarious. The fact that our driver was dead serious for the entire journey and refused to condone our sense of humour made it all the more funny. If you ever find yourself in Battambang, be sure to treat yourself to the notorious bamboo train experience.

Sssssurprise 

One of our days in Battambang was spent exploring the ancient hill tops of Khum Phnom Sampov. There are a series of caves and temples dotted around best explored by motorbike. It was also a rare path less discovered by tourists in comparison with most of our temple experiences; minimal hassle and no elephant trousers in sight. The area was also well inhabited by wildlife, some of which Dod wasn't so comfortable with. We were winding up one of the steeper hills when all of a sudden he slammed sharply on the brakes, "Oh my god oh my god oh my god" was all he could manage to explain. Without knowing what the hell was going on I gripped him around the waist and dug my nails in hard "PUT YOUR F****** FEET DOWN" I said through gritted teeth whilst scraping my toes along the ground to keep us from hurtling backwards down the hill. Thankfully he managed find the inner strength just in time. I looked over his shoulder to see what all the fuss was about and layed eyes on a bright green snake! We had been less than a meter away from running the thing over, which seemed just as startled itself. Dod suddenly snapped out of his immobility and frantically started trying to turn the bike around. "Not so fast" I said, "pics first!" Poor Dod had to wait a few seconds while I snapped away, but hey, now he can prove just how scary it was!

Movement of the People  

During our day of exploring the temples and caves we regularly found ourselves driving through, or temporarily becoming a part of huge political motorbike rallies. It was very exciting, and felt empowering to see an almost equal variation of gender and age groups engaging with the goings on. From what we could gather there were two parties campaigning, the blues and the whites aka The Cambodian People's Party and the Cambodia National Rescue Party. After researching the upcoming election we discovered the not so empowering political status of the leading party. Have a read here - 




It felt strange but eye opening to experience first hand how easy it is to misconceive what is ultimately still a repressed state living under a dictatorship.

Ten Photographs from Battambang