20 February 2017

Everest EC 08.02.17 - 21.02.17

Work Away: Everest English Centre

We found Everest through workaway, an amazing website that connects travelers seeking work with organisations around the world in need of volunteers. At Everest we are paid in accommodation and food to teach English in various suburban nurseries and schools. The classes we've had so far have varied from 30 cheeky 3 year olds experiencing their very first taste of language education, to just 2 lads in their 20s taking a final exam to complete their course. We are almost 2 weeks into our time here and are settling into our temporary home and job very well, so here are the 3 main components that have made up our experience of volunteering at Everest so far... 

Teaching 

Having only worked with children a handful of times I was fairly nervous to begin teaching. I'm not the most confident speaker, and the thought of asserting authority over a large group panics me to death. But there's nothing quite like facing your fears to overcome them! After my first few classes the fear had evaporated and been replaced by new found appreciation for full-time teachers. Keeping a group of 20-30 children engaged for an entire lesson is much harder than I anticipated, let alone doing it for 6 hours a day 5 days a week. I'm getting quite good at the 'Simon says be quiet' thing now, which is bringing back vivid memories of my primary school experience! Back to Everest. We are given our timetable for the week on a Sunday, and so far we've had roughly 1 or 2 lessons a day. Our time table will tell us the class name and which number lesson they are on (the courses seem to be roughly 40-50 lessons long). Rough plans have been put together for most lessons but we are free to design our own around the content if desired. This is actually fairly tough to do as the resources are so limited and the classrooms are very basic. Most students seem to have a pen and pencil but nothing more. The lessons therefore rely heavily on flashcards, singing and games. For every class we are with a Vietnamese teaching assistant whose main role is to aid students with translation as and when needed. They are also there to keep them in check; Vietnamese children are not afraid to mess around during lesson time! As much as there are similarities to schooling environments back home, there are obvious differences too. The strangest thing that's happened so far is a 3 year old girl walking across the classroom mid lesson to hand me a clove of garlic. My TA explained that parents give their children garlic to keep in their pockets during school-time because it is believed to keep the spirits away, and this girl apparently felt I was vulnerable and more in need of a spirit shield than her! It was my very first lesson, so perhaps she could sense my nerves. 


"Simon says..."


Back at the ranch

The Everest hub is based in Mê Linh, a suburban town on the outskirts of Hanoi. All current volunteers live together in shared rooms on the top floor of the three story centre, the middle floor has a kitchen and basic work space, and the ground floor is set up as half admin office half social area. One of the best parts of volunteering here is that we all sit and eat lunch and dinner together. At 12pm and 7pm a family member of one of the TAs rocks up on his motorbike and drops off a sack full of home cooked traditional Vietnamese food. There's always rice and a selection of meat, tofu and vegetable dishes. We sit and feast together, talking and learning about each other and our varying cultures. It's always a lovely atmosphere and a such a treat to converse with like-minded and interesting people from all around the world every day. Currently we are English, American, German, French, Tunisian and of course Vietnamese! 


Suburban Life 

My favourite part of working for Everest so far has been the experience of living in a suburban area of Vietnam. I have to admit when we first arrived we were slightly worried about the location of the centre. It's about a 45 minute bus ride from Hanoi town centre, and at a glance there are minimal ways to keep yourself entertained within walking / cycling distance. However, as time has gone on we have come to realise that here we are very much immersed in raw suburban Vietnamese culture. Nothing about Mê Linh is designed to accommodate tourists which means we are able to learn how the Vietnamese truly live day to day. We were lucky enough to experience a local community festival last week, which had a likeness to Mangotsfield Festival but without health and safety. We played 'smash the light bulb', 'catch the live fish' and 'pop the balloon with a dart', all of which had a teddy as their top prize; fair games with a violent twist! When we stopped and sat down to sample some of the food we were bombarded by a group of very excited locals. None of them could speak any English and of course our Vietnamese screeches to a halt after hello, but somehow we managed to sit and communicate for a good half an hour. We had been warned by the other volunteers that the locals like to neck their drinks, what's more they like you to do the same. They would fill up Dod's cup, all take it in turns to cheers him and then insist that he downed it in one in very time. Then came the shots of rice wine, which is absolutely the worst tasting beverage we have ever sampled. Much to the groups disappointment we managed to escape the downing sesh after half an hour or so. If I had been able to drink the beer we would have loved to stay longer, however it gets a little awkward after turning down the 3rd cup. On our cycle home from the festival we stopped to look in a leather shop, as we were leaving the woman ran after us holding out her phone for Dod to take a call. Confused, he answered the phone to someone telling us to wait for them. After a few minutes a young boy came racing down the road on a bike, when he arrived outside the shop he panted excitedly "Hello, please you can come inside for tea". The two women ushered us and the boy inside, sat us down and poured us a cup of the local green tea. The boy who was 13 explained that he had learned English when he was at primary school with Everest's help, but rarely got the chance to practice it. So when his mum and Grandma (the two ladies running the shop) had heard us speaking English they had called him back from playing out with his friends so he could speak with us. They were so excited to watch him put his skills into practice, they would squeal every time he spoke! The gang at Everest were expecting us back for dinner so we thanked him and his family for the hospitality, and just before we said our goodbyes his mother invited us for dinner the following week. Of course we accepted the invitation, and are looking forward to meeting the family again in a few days time! These amazing and memorable encounters would have never happened had we been staying somewhere more central. Aside from walking around and meeting the lovely locals we have visited the local amenities which include a gym, a pool bar and karaoke rooms and the big C - a ginormous supermarket that is strangely interesting to walk around. Paying a visit to any of these places invites a hundred double-takes and "hellooooo"'s which make you feel like a local celebrity! 





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All in all we are absolutely loving it here at Everest, and already looking at doing more voluntary work through workaway later on in our trip. It seems to be the best way to meet like-minded people, experience raw local culture and gain wonderful new skills. 

Cảm ơn people of Everest and Mê Linh!

17 February 2017

Photos 26.01.17 - 04.01.17

Nong Khiaw & Moung Ngoi in Ten Photographs 


Patok Cave 
Nong Khiaw view point
Boat, Nong Khiaw - Moung Ngoi 



Morning ceremony in which locals give food to the Monks (similar to the 'Alms Giving Ceremony' in Luang Prabang)





15 February 2017

Village Life 26.01.17 - 04.02.17

Nong Khiaw, Moung Ngoi and Village Life 

Green mountains, wooden huts and toilets without flushes, Nong Khiaw introduced us to a whole new style of Laos life. The village is fairly large in comparison to others we have visited, it's split over two sides of the Ou River and inhabits some of the most picturesque scenery I have ever come across. We walked across the main bridge at least twice a day and I had to stop and take photographs every bloody time! Our second village stop was Moung Ngoi, a much smaller but nonetheless plentiful village running along just one 300m dirt track. The village is only accessible via boat, which we took from Nong Khiaw for 25,000 KIP each. It takes roughly an hour and runs daily at 11am from the western side of the river. As you would probably imagine there is only a limited amount of activities available in either village to entertain yourself with, (scroll to the bottom of this post for a list of what we would recommend) however, the beauty of visiting rural areas for us city residents is in learning first hand how the cogs of village life align. We spent hours just walking around and observing the everyday life of locals, which we found fascinating and completely inspiring. So, here are three things we learned and loved about Laos village life...


A house is more than just a home

As I have mentioned previously, there are vast amounts of rural space in Laos that is inhabitable or extremely dangerous to visit due to the scattering of UXO bombs (un-exploded bombs). However, Nong Khiaw and Moung Ngoi are both rural villages that are safe and able to open their doors to tourists. That's not to say that the locals are by any means well-off, just that being able to welcome a steady flow of visitors has been key in enabling the villages to develop and expand as a whole. There are now dozens of small flourishing restaurants, shops and cafes lining the streets (or street!) of both villages, however the difference from those in the city is that each and every business doubles up as a family home. We came to appreciate that our food might take little longer to arrive because the chef is also a mother of 3 and cooking for a restaurant full of people whilst putting her children to bed, or perhaps there is nobody to serve you at the local shop for half an hour because the family running it are having their lunch out the back. Even the families that haven't converted the inside of their houses will host all day BBQs out on the street, they set up stools and make-shift tables for passers by to enjoy skewers of meat or crispy grilled fish; pop-up restaurants galore. There's something warming about the way these people are living their lives, they provide an environment for strangers to enjoy themselves in every day and every night without the promise of heading home to their own space at the end of the shift. They are always at work, and somehow always happy to see you. The kids especially, be ready to play fight mid-meal! With that said, there is an extremely personal element to everything you experience in these villages. Not everything is right on time or 100% perfect, but it comes with a smile worth so much more.

The sustainable, community fueled cycle

As to be expected village life is much more sustainable than that of a town or city, and we were in no shock to find Nong Khiaw and Moung Ngoi almost entirely self-sustaining (bar the few imported goods like Coca-Cola & lays crisps). It was hugely inspiring to watch a community work so efficiently together to maintain and support a rural location that is developing at a fair pace. From the 10 days we spent in Northern Laos we gathered that the two communities ran on a pretty much daily cycle that is inclusive of all local people whatever their trade. We learned that fridges are a rarity, (and if owned are used for beer!) so food is bought fresh every day. This creates enough demand for the local market to run every morning. Here you'll find fresh home grown vegetables and herbs, butchered meats, live stock and local fishermen selling their mornings catch. Plus, every household owns a hen (or 10) so eggs are aplenty. You'll probably also recognise the customers as the people who have, or will cook you up a storm at some point during your stay. Whats-more, I could hazard a guess that the locals working the market later become the families barbecuing outside their homes, cooking up whatever they have left over from that mornings market. Finally, rice is the absolute staple ingredient to any Laos dish. Since '99 the nation has been totally self-sufficient in production of the grain, and so it seemed as we passed the hundreds of gorgeous shimmering aquatic fields on our journey to Nong Khiaw. So wherever you are in Laos, be it noodles, spring rolls, beer or wine, it's all made from the countries locally grown pride and joy; gluten free heaven! So, minimal waste, high employment and (mopeds aside) a low carbon footprint. As for housing and appliances, most are hand built and made using locally sourced materials such as wood and bamboo. There is also a big weaving culture, particularly in Moung Ngoi. You can watch the cotton being spun and the scarfs, rugs and bedding being woven outside the shop on the side of the street. They also often use natural indigo dye to colour the items. Aside from all this the heart beat of these villages is the collective spirit that embodies daily life. It's so easy to work with an 'every man for himself' attitude when resources are limited, but that is nowhere near the case here in Northern Laos. All for community, and community for all is the key to these flourishing villages.  

Rice drying in Nong Khiaw 

Villagers Before Visitors

Through reading this so far you might be feeling that perhaps these people are giving up a little too much to accommodate the increasing number of tourists arriving on their doorstep. I have to admit, we certainly felt that way for parts of our stay. However, there were a few moments in which we were promptly reminded tourists were by no means a priority - and rightly so. One of these reminders came in the form of an all night karaoke marathon that took place on a Thursday during our stay in Muong Ngoi. Yes you read that correctly, an all night karaoke marathon. It was an entire night of tossing and turning to full volume, badly executed, Asian rock ballads. As I have mentioned previously Moung Ngoi runs entirely along just one 300m dirt track, so no matter where you were, you were within earshot. We walked past the village community space at about 10pm just as they were setting up for the night, we hung around for a little while but ưhen no one explicitly invited us over we called it a night so as not to intrude. It was just as we got into bed at about 11pm that the singing started. They finally put the mic down at 7am. I would normally be absolutely fuming to have been kept up for that length of time, but to put it into perspective we were staying in a village that until 2013 only had electricity for 3 hours a day, a village that has an immensely Buddhist population and a village where most restaurants close before 10pm. In that sense, it was totally the opposite of anything we expected to happen during our time there; it was so ridiculous it became hilarious. We were pretty wired from being up all night, so we couldn't sleep even when the noise finally stopped. At about 7:30am we headed out for some breakfast. Oh my, Muong Ngoi was hungover. We sat down in our favourite cafe just as the chef slammed into the kitchen, shirtless and desperately sipping a Redbull. It was as if they had hit the stop button and all scrambled to work at once, the street was full of disorientated locals running in all directions. The tourists were in the opposite state, roaming like zombies having abandoned sleep and seeking food. Later that day we discovered they were holding a 2 day festival to celebrate something new being installed into the village temple, exactly what was installed we aren't sure! But importantly the festival was very much for local people, and far from tailored to suit tourists. Although it definitely didn't leave us feeling refreshed, it was refreshing to know that not everything evolves around tourism in these villages. At least not for now anyway!

Early morning in Moung Ngoi 


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What to do? 


Nong Khiaw

- Stay in a bamboo hut -
For only 60,000 - 100,000 KIP a night you can have the novelty of sleeping in a beautiful bamboo hut. They are mostly situated on the eastern side of the river, and pretty much all have spectacular views. We spent most afternoons reading / writing on our balcony; glorious down time! 

- Rent a moped for the day -
Mopeds are slightly more expensive to hire here at 120,000 KIP, but definitely worth the price. There is only one hire shop on the eastern side of the river, (and only 4/5 bikes so get there early) we took a right out of the shop and follow the road for 1.5 hours passing through 5 or 6 beautifully authentic villages. Be ready to wave your arm off to some mega cute kids! 

- Visit the Patok Cave - 
20 - 30 minute walk east from the bridge you will find Patok cave, which is where village people hid during the bombings of the secret war. You pay a small fee for a ticket on arrival.  

- View Point - 
A must during your stay here! I would recommend trekking after sunrise but before lunch as it's a tough climb during the heat, however the view isn't as breathtaking very early on due to cloud. It takes about 1.5 hours to get to the top.

- Sabai Sabai Spa, Herbal Steam Bath and Massage -
We treated ourselves to both but you can do either. We were slightly confused by the name but the steam bath turned out to be a steam room, it opens once the sun has gone down at around 5:30pm and is lovely after a days trekking! The spa is on the eastern side of the river opposite the two Indian restaurants. 

(There are also a number of treks, waterfall visits and kayaking experiences you can book onto from the village - but we didn't get around to any of these!) 


Moung Ngoi

- Stay in a bamboo hut -
Same as above! Although prepare more reading material, we spent 80% of our time in the hammocks.

- Walk to nearby village: Ba Na -
Take plenty of water, wear comfortable shoes and plan for half a day as the walk takes a good 1.5-2 hours with stops along the way. You can get lunch in the village, we ate at a guesthouse at the far end past the school. 

- Rent a kayak -
You can either book onto a trip or rent a boat alone to row to the weaving village. Unfortunately the day we had planned to do this turned out to be during the festival, and we were unable to take the boat out because nobody was allowed to arrive in  / return to Moung Ngoi after 2pm due to the village peoples' plans for that evening. (We later found out it was because they were shooting across the river with air rifles!)



9 February 2017

Laos: A Change of Plan

Laos is probably the country we spent the least time researching prior to our trip. It's landlocked between Thailand, China, Vietnam and Cambodia which places it very much in the center of the classic South East Asia backpacking route. We were completely shocked to learn from a war museum in Luang Prabang that the US dropped over 250 million cluster bombs on Laos during a 'secret war' that coincided the Vietnam war, which also ended in 1973 with a communist victory. What's more, roughly 30% of the total number of bombs dropped were un-exploded, which leaves large areas of the country not only in great poverty but unable to open its doors to tourists. That said, tourism in Laos is now heavily focused on only 3 main cities: Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng and Vientiane. Almost everyone we met was massively underwhelmed with Laos and what these three cities had to offer in comparison to the rest of South East Asia, so after a week in Luang Prabang we made a decision to head north and spend our time immersed the beauty of rural, mountainous (what we have come to know as) 'Laid back Laos'. 

Our experiences of rural Lao life to follow...


3 February 2017

Luang Prabang 20.01.17 - 27.01.17

Luang Prabang, our three favourite spots

Post Thailand we ended up spending a week re-charging and cost-cutting in Luang Prabang. This gave us plenty of time to really discover the best of the city, and settle briefly into the comfort of an almost routine. Below are three of our favourite spots in the city...

LaosLaos Garden 

We began our love affair with LaosLaos garden on our very first night in the city, its gorgeous 3 tiered garden setting filled with warm glowing lanterns and floating candles is something quite special. You can enjoy cheap (but not cheap tasting) cocktails, free pool all day and night and our favourite part, your very own private BBQ.  Considering an open fire is their staple kitchen appliance, Laos people pretty much live off BBQ food and this tradition has been cleverly re-invented and adapted into an oh-so-brilliant and slightly addictive tourist attraction. Every table has a secret compartment hidden inside the clay stand that is revealed by lifting the middle tile out from the surface, a clay bucket of coals slots into the compartment to form the base of the BBQ. Finally a metal dome shaped dish rimmed with a deep lip is placed over the coals, dome side up. You are served baskets brimming with fresh rice noodles, salad, eggs, garlic, spices and either a plate full of meat and fish or a selection of exotic vegetables and tofu (we went veggie) as well as a few different sauces and a 'clear soup'. The waiter gave us a brief demonstration of how to cook Lao style. Firstly a lump of fat is placed at the top of the dome to grease the dish, whilst the clear soup is ladled into the lip. The rice noodles, salad and raw eggs are all placed into the soup whilst the either the meat or tofu and veg is arranged around the dome. The idea is that all the juices then drip down into the eggy noodle soup at the bottom for flavour. Lastly, you can add the garlic, spices and peanut sauce in wherever you fancy. The result it a gorgeous bowl of fragrant, smoky noodle soup topped with sticky, spicy barbecued tofu and vegetables; delicious doesn't cover it. The whole thing cost all of 80,000 kip, which is just under a whopping £10! 





Utopia

Utopia is one of the best venues, if not the best that we have come across along our travels so far. Highly recommended by bloggers as a great nightlife spot we were pleasantly surprised to find it our favourite place by day. Set high up on a river bank over-looking the Nam Khan river, its first weapon is the view. The lowest level of the bar is a shaded wooden veranda that juts off the edge of the bank, filled with cushions and low tables it provides an atmosphere perfect for spending any length of time in. The middle level is just above the veranda and has more of a restaurant feel to it, we ate here once and the food was delicious although not the cheapest in comparison to the rest of the city. Above this is an oversized hut-like area which is home to the bar, and also where you'll enter Utopia. The bar area is mostly kitted out with floor cushions and low tables, however there are a couple of high tables and stools that over-look the volleyball court. Finally, a decked platform in the far corner, opposite the bar and next to the veranda, acts as  an open air yoga studio operating between 7-8am & 5-6pm. It's a place for all kinds of people and all kinds of day. For myself and Dod it became a place to write, read or listen to music for hours on end. Whether you fancy a day to yourself or are looking to meet any number of interesting new people, Utopia creates an environment that can cater for all. 


Locals' Picnic Spot 

We came across this spot completely by accident whilst exploring the rural outskirts of the city. Originally we had stopped to look at a tomb that was highlighted on our map, however the tomb itself turned out not to be as exciting as it sounded. Although it belongs to Henri Mouhot, who we later found out was the first westerner to discover Angkor Wat, it is fairly recently erected and also more of a tombstone so doesn't yet have the ancient charm you would expect from the word 'tomb'. Passing the grave we walked out of the forest and onto a river pathway, where we came across a man catching fish with his bare hands! He slit the fish 3 times on each side and put it straight onto a fire behind him.  A little way up from this small bamboo huts began to pop up with signs outside reading '40,000'. We worked out they were for rent at 40,000 kip (£4.50) however, they had no walls. They were more like large balconies overlooking the river, beautiful spots no doubt but not a place to sleep for the night. We moved further up the river and our questions were answered as we came across one of the huts in use; they were picnic spots for hire. Over the next hour or so family after family came and set up camp for the day in these little huts. Each group of 15 or more, started a fire just outside their hut and pulled buckets of fresh meat, fish and veg out ready to barbecue. It was wonderful to watch these families away from the hustle and bustle of the city, and discover what seemed to be a common Sunday lunch family tradition. We were hoping if we lingered around we might get an invite to enjoy some of the food, but no such luck for us!




Other places we visited and loved...
  • Nisha - Indian restaurant, for when the Laos food gets too greasy!
  • Icon Klub - Artsy cocktail bar supplying endless amounts of board games
  • Evening food markets - A side street off of the main night market street, fill a bowl for 15,000 kip (£1.60)
  • L'etranger - French inspired cafe serving delicious food, upstairs room opens as a miniature cinema every night 
  • La Pistoche - Urban swimming retreat, gorgeous pool with swim up bar, day ticket costs only 30,000 kip (you also pay a 50,000, deposit per ticket)
  • Bamboo Bridge - The bridge itself is an interesting piece of construction, and also leads you to the 'Garden of Eden', a jewellery shop running free drop-in jewellery making workshops every day
  • Kuang Si Waterfall - Either take a tuk tuk for around 50,000 each, or hire a scooter for 120,000, the drive is about 1 hour but the scooter gives you freedom to stop off at local villages on the way as well as  catch a better glimpse of the incredible scenery!
  • Lao UXO visitors centre - Museum just outside of the city centre, dedicated to spreading awareness of UXO (unexploded bombs) in Lao